To Antarctica - days at sea

We have been at sea now for about 36 hours – it’s a great time to catch up with sleep, work through photos, generally rest and relax, attend presentations and provide a short update before we reach the Antarctic.  The information we’re receiving from presentations is very high quality and of great interest – the only problem is staying awake in a warm, dark room that rocks gently from side to side!  This morning we had relatively gentle seas and dark grey skies – temperature 0oC & wind of 20-25 knots blowing from the side of the ship – it’s a comfortable ride. Birds are scarce. 

Read More
Elane Zelcer
Farewell South Georgia

It has been an extraordinary 4 days with mostly great weather. This region is known for its diverse sea & birdlife – and we’ve met & seen large numbers of each. Albatross, penguins, petrels, terns and of course whales. This morning we zodiac’d to see Macaroni penguins with very cute yellow crests, then to a colony of King penguins and fur seals. One little Fur seal decided to swim out to our zodiac and try to board it.

Read More
Elane Zelcer
South Georgia – kings, furs, whales, icebergs & wind!

Yesterday we woke at 5am soon anchored in St Andrew’s Bay – a wide open expanse of beach where King penguins swim & surf, fur seals play in the water and elephant seals lie around burping and grunting. The cloud was low, and the temperature a reasonable 2 celsius.  We meandered by zodiac around the bottom of the cliffs that lined the Bay, and then watched the penguins and seals along the beach. We knew that the real opportunities would come when we landed!

Read More
Elane Zelcer
South Georgia: Kings & much, much more

What a truly magnificent day! I'm rapidly learning why so many people have asked me why I haven't visited South Georgia before.  After 2 1/2 days sailing from the Falklands, we reached our first stop at around 3:00am.  I opened the curtains to see Salisbury Plains, high mountains rising at the back, with glaciers coming down to the water, and masses of grasslands in between. With binoculars I can see thousands upon thousands of King penguins.

Read More
Elane Zelcer
Good morning iceberg!

Wow, what a morning! Very different to yesterday’s lazy day spent catching up with some sleep and being at presentations – then watching an hour or so of Master & Commander!  We crossed the Antarctic Convergence about 5-5:30pm yesterday – this is where the cold water of the Antarctic Ocean meets the warmer southern Atlantic. It is a fascinating phenomenon that is specific to the Antarctic, and very important to bird and sea-life not just in this area, but along the west coasts of South America, Africa and New Zealand.

Read More
Elane Zelcer
Falkland Islands – penguins, albatross, sunshine

Yesterday we visited 2 islands in the Falkland’s group – Westpoint in the morning & Saunders in the afternoon – both are privately owned.  The weather was superb – sunshine, gentle breeze, around 10oC.  After breakfast, we were in the zodiacs & heading to Westpoint Is, owned by the Napier family. The caretakers, a husband & wife, are the only inhabitants & have their yacht tied up at their dock. 

Read More
Elane Zelcer