South Georgia: Kings & much, much more

Feb 5, 2015 Salisbury Plain: 54o03'S/037o90'W
Feb 5, 2015 Stromness Harbour: 54o10'S/036o42'W

What a truly magnificent day! I'm rapidly learning why so many people have asked me why I haven't visited South Georgia before.

After 2 1/2 days sailing from the Falklands, we reached our first stop in South Georgia at around 3:00am. Our wake-up call came at 5am - and when I opened the curtains, I started to understand the beauty of this place. I was looking at Salisbury Plains, high mountains rising at the back, with glaciers coming down to the water, and masses of grasslands in between. A closer look with binoculars and I can see thousands upon thousands of King penguins - not just on the grassy areas, but also on the beach.

We quickly dress in warm, waterproof gear and half the passengers head to the zodiacs - me included. The "zodiac cruise" for the other half has been cancelled due to the very strong winds.

Yes it's cold and bumpy, and spray is coming over the bow - but this is all behind us when we land on the beach and are greeted by the Kings! They are so curious - when I see one "eyeing" me, I stand very still, and he comes very close, so that I can clearly see his beautiful feathers.

We stay for around 2 hours, but the vicious catabatic winds that fly down the mountains (make standing up hard, as well as holding a camera still with a long lens) finally force me back to the ship.

The morning passes by - breakfast, catch-up with new friends, review the morning's photos (some looking ok), and making sure that I have cards and batteries for the afternoon.

In the early afternoon I decide it would be good to have a quick nap since we'll be back on zodiacs at around 3:00pm when we arrive at Stromness, our next stop.

Within minutes of falling asleep, Woody makes a PA announcement: "we are seeing frequent whale blows ahead of the bow." Warm jacket/fleece on, hat on, camera in hand and out the door, onto the port side. There they are - whale blows and tail flukes - they're Humpbacks. Very nice to see - and soon they are heading away from us.

I head up to the Bridge and am with about 8 people on the port side when we see more blows - much larger, or are they just closer? One of the young guides suggests either a Fin whale or a Blue whale. The blows continue - and soon we can see the long body in more detail. It is confirmed, not just one Blue whale but two - a mother and calf!

The Captain turns the ship so that we follow slowly- this is incredible. This is something I had always hoped to see - and now it's happening. What a magnificent animal - the largest mammal in the world, and with a calf.

We stay with them for about 20 mins and then let them continue on their path north as we turn back onto our south-east heading to Stromness Bay.

Seas are flat now, the sun is shining - it's a beautiful day in South Georgia! We enjoy being amongst more King penguins and lots of baby fur seals when we land.  Ahead of us is the mountain that Shackleton came over from the other side of South Georgia.  The home of the whaling station's manager is just to our left - it is where Shackleton knocked on the door and raised the alarm that ultimately saved his men.

It has been a wonderful day and we have another early start tomorrow - St Andrew's Bay (masses of King Penguins and elephant seals) and then Grytviken (Shackleton's grave).

Once again this evening, we will close all the blinds on the ship & dowse outside lights (other than for navigation) so that birds are not attracted to the ship.  They become distracted and fly into windows with disastrous results.

Tonight I'm sure that I'll be dreaming of Kings and Blue Whales!