We were back on the Zodiacs at 7:30am and going towards the main river, slowing to see a wonderful sight – a row of seals lying in various positions on the surface of the water. Well actually they were sitting on rocks or trees that were just covered by the water. Very cute!

We tried, unsuccessfully, to find bears in the quiet stream to the left of the main river. The tide was low and navigation difficult, so we “beached” the Zodiacs, climbed out onto the land and walked back to yesterday’s viewing area.

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We woke early – and I heard whale blows from my cabin! But it would be impossible to see them – thick fog blanketed our boat, making Brian wonder whether we’d be able to find our way back into the Khutze salt marsh. We were determined to try to find grizzlies here!

Some granola (home made by Joshua & delicious) was on the table at 7am, and we were up on deck by 7:30am ready to load onto the zodiacs. The fog lifted sufficiently for us to go. There are 10 guests, although 9 this morning (Sue F needed to rest up because of a nasty cold) – I climbed down into the smaller grey zodiac with 3 guests, Emily & Mark, and the larger zodiac had 5 guests & Brian.

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Today started with a 7am kayak for those that wanted to do this before we set off down Princess Royal Channel to Khutze Inlet.  Soon after leaving our anchorage at Home Bay, Brian saw two whale blows from humpbacks logging (sleeping on the surface). 

They were not easily aroused although we hung in there for a good 20 minutes or so, watching them blow before sinking a little, then lying quietly on or just below the surface.  Although relaxing for them and for us, a tugboat was coming down the channel towing a very large tanker – Brian warned them, and they moved away from the centre of the channel, keeping the whales safe.

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It was a little greyer and damp, and we’d been told that although the beach access to the trail was easier, the trail itself was not as straightforward as yesterday’. We landed next to the mouth of the creek (name deliberately not used), and clambered across the rocks to the bear trail that would take us to the place we would stay for the day.

The trail followed the creek – it wound up and down, required climbing over fallen trees and other obstacles as well as crossing the creek, traversing slippery muddy areas and having to slide down into hollows and then climb out of them. With much hand holding, using my butt to slide when needed and being helped up and down the very steep bits, I made it to an area where other people had set up their site for the day next to the creek.

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Days 3 & 4 have been all about bears – Black & Spirit Bears (also known as Kermode, white). We landed our zodiacs on the eastern side of Gribbel Island, climbing carefully up the rocky shoreline to a path that would take us deep into the Great Bear Rainforest. The walk to Riordan Creek was about 1.5km – an easy trail until the very end where there is a short, but very steep and deep 2 steps down. Sitting and then sliding down made this easier for those of us with short legs.

Our wooden stand complete with bench seats and a tarpaulin cover, overlooked the creek – a perfect place to be for the next 8 hours, to watch for bears coming down to fish.

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The plan was for an early morning kayak for those so inclined, and a zodiac “cruise” for the rest of us. We were in “Home Bay” just off Princess Royal Island. It was cool and damp, with low grey clouds hiding the tops of the surrounding mountains, and a persistent wet mist that required wet weather gear for people and cameras.

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We arrived in Kitimat yesterday at around midday, by bus from Yellow Cedar Lodge in Terrace. The flight the day before (Monday) from Vancouver to Terrace was glorious. Our DASH-8 flew at 24,000ft, which meant that we were that little bit closer to the massive Coastal Mountains – their jagged, snow-covered peaks interspersed with aquamarine lakes, and white glaciers moving slowly towards rivers and the sea.

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It’s been a relaxing Sunday, with lots of walking in the sunshine, and some people watching. I started with a walk from my hotel to Vancouver’s Gastown. My route took me via the Vancouver Harbour with 2 giant cruise ships in port, and loads of people disembarking, wheeling their luggage from one place to another, and looking for buses that would take them on day trips.

But my intention was Gastown – I have fond memories of great cafes, excellent restaurants, and good, interesting shopping.

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What a glorious afternoon! Well not for the porpoise, but wonderful for us.

Earlier this year I signed up with Prince of Whales (yes, really), Vancouver, for the last whale watch trip for the day from Granville Island. My idea was that if we were to find whales out there, the crew will be less likely to be in an immense hurry to come back. And so it was!

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