Day 4 - Bears, Bears, Bears (On the western side of Gribbell Island)

It was a little greyer and damp, and we’d been told that although the beach access to the trail was easier, the trail itself was not as straightforward as yesterday. We landed next to the mouth of a creek (name deliberately not used to protect the location), and clambered across the rocks to the bear trail that would take us to the place we would stay for the day.

The trail followed the creek, meandering amongst the trees (vertical & horizontal). We climbed up and over fallen trees, under some, then crossed the creek, traversing slippery muddy areas and having to slide down into hollows and then climb out of them. With much hand holding, using my butt to slide when needed and being helped up and down the very steep bits, I made it to an area where other people had set up their site for the day next to the creek. Brian (our skipper) and Jolynn (Marvin’s niece and a local guide) advised that I stay here with them, while the rest of our group went on. Apparently a wise move terrain-wise – and one that “paid off” for me in many ways.

We were in an old growth forest, level with the river (no viewing stand here). Cedars and spruce trees reach to the sky for light, very old mosses grow over some, ready to provide water during periods of low rainfall. I found a log that would be my “base” for the day – sprayed myself with bug spray, sat down and looked around at this absolutely beautiful, serene place. The river was essentially at my feet with weathered rocks between where I was sitting and the water. Thick trees on the other side of the river created beautiful patterns of light on the water. The new group of people was a little to my right, with Tim, their guide, as my “go to” person if needed – he and our guides were in radio contact.

We heard that there was a black bear coming from the right (downstream from our spot). I went forward to my viewing place, and there he was on the other side of the stream, maybe 30 meters away, aware of us, and comfortable in our presence. He headed away towards a deep pool with salmon splashing about, and eventually caught one, then brought it back to a dry rocky area where he could eat it.

Jolynn came by to check on me, and we chatted about her life in Hartley Bay, her children and the work that she does when not guiding for her uncle. Another larger black bear was coming downstream – she knew this bear and its habits: “it will walk down the other side, cross just to our left, and will then go into that hollow. It loves to fish there.” And so it did.

“That hollow” was about 15 meters from where we were standing, and had been the place that a tree had stood, until it fell away from the river, making a great leaning place for us later that day. The hollow was a great place for salmon to get into but not out of – easy pickings for a bear fattening up for the winter!

The day meandered gently on – I met some of the people in the other group, all staying at Hartley Bay, a First Nations town of 100 people. They were on a day tour that Marvin runs from there. One is a painter, and was painting the base/background for a piece that she’ll finish later – the bear in it was black, based on those we’d seen.

Word was out that a spirit bear, a 26 year old female known as Ma’ah, had been sighted upstream by my Island Roamer group. She started to head our way but had probably seen one of the black bears and turned back. They’d been splashing around trying to catch salmon in the large pool, and she did not need to fight for her food.

At around 3pm we were told that Ma’ah was again coming our way. And there she was – looking large and with a presence that reflected being the oldest spirit bear in the area. Her coat had dark markings, probably associated with her genetic makeup, and she had the most amazing eyelashes that frame her eyes. A beautiful bear.

A small group of us were leaning on the fallen tree next to “that hollow” as she came closer and closer. I was really concerned that she’d come right up to us – however she finally saw us, and chose to go up into the bush, and onto the path. Tim radioed the other guides to let them know that she was probably on the trail so that no-one would be unnecessarily surprised.

What a wonderful view we had of this glorious matriarch.

Very soon after seeing Ma’ah, we saw another black bear upstream. It looked very similar to the large one we’d seen during the morning, the one that liked “that hollow.” He’d caught a salmon and was eating it on the rocks about 100 meters away. They are quite meticulous, eating the flesh and yummy internal parts, and licking the caviar-like eggs that are full of protein. Having finished this one, it was time to find the next, and with a pool of splashing fish next to him, that was a great place to start. It was also fun photography, and nice to be able to lean on the log with “that hollow” to the right.

He had found and devoured another salmon, and then started coming towards us fairly determinedly. I looked at Tim and he motioned to stand still. Every instinct was to turn and move away, but stand still I did. I know the guides carry bear spray and are trained, but two of us were between the bear spray and the bear!

The bear came up towards the log – if I’d been breathing I’m sure I would have smelled it. Then he moved towards the river, came around the end of the tree and went down into “that hollow.” He was mere meters away.

We each quietly stepped back to create “space” – I was now leaning against a vertical tree. Out he came, this beautiful black bear, a fresh salmon hanging from its mouth. He looked around to see where to sit to eat it. How about this nice flat area just 3-4 meters in front of us? Perfect for him and for us!

And there he sat, chomping on the salmon – we could hear every crunch, and see him devour most parts within a few minutes. While the bear was focused on his snack, Tim moved us around to create an obvious route for him to take when he’d finished. The bear stopped eating, looked up and around with that glazed look that we all have after an excellent meal. He stood up – a big bear - and started to move between us and the fallen log. Tim gently but firmly said “Hey bear, nice bear, that’s the way” and slowly but surely the bear moved back towards the river and into “that hollow.”

Now that’s an encounter with a bear! Amazing – to have a wild animal that close, with only trust between you, from him to us and us to him - thrilling and exhilarating!

And with that, my group had appeared and it was time to walk back up and over trees, up and down the giant steps, back along the bear path to the sea, our zodiac, and the Island Roamer. What an amazing experience!

Some of my photos from the Great Bear Rainforest can be seen at this LINK.