South of the Circle wrap-up

Our last night on the ship was the Captain’s dinner, a celebration of all that we’ve achieved.  We have crossed the Drake Passage twice, reached well below the Antarctic Circle, and completed 15 excursions (landing and cruising).  The Captain, his Russian crew and the Peregrine team have taken us safely into and out of amazing places on the Antarctic Peninsula, dodging icebergs and providing safe access on and off the Zodiacs.

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Elane Zelcer
Bouncing across the Drake Passage

Sleeping has been uncomfortable – sliding up and down the bed is a new experience, and works those core muscles in an entirely new way! The morning is grey and overcast, and 30-40 knot winds. This is the first morning I’m not on the Bridge before breakfast – lying horizontally seems preferable while the next dose of Kwell takes hold. The sun starts to come out over lunch, and the barometer is rising - hopefully the swell will reduce over the next 12-24 hours.

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Elane Zelcer
Half Moon Island - Chinstraps galore

The wind has picked up to 35-45 knots, and we’re pushing into a reasonable swell.  Rain and snow are hitting the front windows of the Bridge, and I can only stay out on the fly bridge for a few minutes. We’re due to enter Neptune’s Bellows on Deception Island at 8:30am – a narrow and tricky passage.  Having raced back to the cabin to throw on more layers, I’m out on the fly Bridge, trying to hold the camera steady – not easy in this raging gale, but there are great views of the entry to this volcanic caldera.

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Elane Zelcer
Neko Harbour - Landing on the Continent

We’re traveling slowly towards our anchorage in Neko Harbour and spot 2 Humpback whales making their way around the icebergs. “Tranquil” is the best word to describe this sight – they seem to move so slowly, and in unison, and as breakfast is called, the larger one lifts her body up and dives deep, showing a magnificent tail fluke – just beautiful! I stay and watch for a while longer – breakfast can wait.

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Elane Zelcer
Icebergs, Leopard Seals & Penguins

The Antarctic is starting to show its true colours this morning – cloudy, but no wind.  
Our morning Zodiac ride takes us straight to the entrance to Yalour Island, and as we approach we can see and smell the Adelie rookeries.  The little black and white penguins are lined up on every high point – thousands of them!  Our landing is quite challenging (steep, snowy and rocky), and it becomes apparent that this particular landing spot place is also a penguin highway – one of their routes to the water. 

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Elane Zelcer
Our first landing - 2,040nm from South Pole

Coming into the inlet that leads to Stonington Island is breathtaking.  We are at our furthest point south, 68o11’68” S, and at 10:00am take the Zodiacs to this small island that once housed a British and a US station.  This island is aptly named – lots of stones to make walking up and over the ridge quite challenging.  A Waddell seal is sunning itself on a patch of snow close to where we land, and lots of Skuas and Terns fly low, squawking loudly to warn us away from their roosting areas – we oblige!

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Elane Zelcer