Our epic journey ends

Saturday, 2nd January 2010 - along NZ's west coast:  It was a very, very rough night and no-one slept particularly well, but we’re getting used to this.  Fortunately as we get further north and near the NZ coast, the winds reduce and the seas flatten.  

The afternoon brings warm weather and sunshine on the bow, and with land way off to port, I realize that I might have a signal on my Blackberry.  Sure enough I do – it’s wonderful to make a quick call to John and say hello from the Southern Ocean!  

This amazing journey is coming to an end.  I stand on the bow watching the sea, thinking about where we’ve been and what I’ve experienced – and getting a little sunburned.  

Tonight we celebrated the crew and the end of the voyage.  The Captain tells us that yesterday he saw not one, but three rogue waves.  He’s never seen these before but he steered us around them – I realize I saw one of these!  Then it’s back to the cabin to pack and prepare to leave early tomorrow morning.

Sunday, 3rd January, 2010 - arriving in NZ:  Seas have been calm overnight and we all slept well.  I’m up early to see us come into Lyttleton. The Pilot boat comes alongside – all I can see is the mast – but somehow the Pilot climbs up the side of the ship on a rope ladder – that must be one steep and scary climb.  He’s followed by two NZ Customs officials.  

After breakfast we clear Customs &Immigration, and all too soon I’m walking down the gangway, collecting my luggage and boarding a bus to the Christchurch airport. Good-byes continue on the pier, on the buses and at the airport.  Then it’s a short flight to Auckland and a transfer across to the International terminal.  My flight to Melbourne arrives on time at 9:30pm.

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How privileged I am to have been able to travel a third of the way around the Antarctic coast, to be amongst the penguins, seals, whales and birds, to step where the early explorers trod, to stand on the Ross Ice Shelf, and to safely and comfortably navigate sea ice and conditions that had been impossible for early explorers. To meet Emperor penguins has been wonderful; the Adelies have been as gorgeous as always; to finally see Orca, and so many of them, was very exciting; and to meet interesting people from around the world, was again a joy.  The ship's crews made this so much more than expected - from the delicious food day after day (including fresh fruit & salad to the last day), to the Captain & his Russian crew safely taking us by ship & helicopter to places we would otherwise never see. The Quark crew have been fantastic - always so helpful & interesting, and in some very challenging conditions.  A truly amazing expedition!  
 

Elane Zelcer