Campbell & Enderby Islands
Wednesday, 30th December - arriving at Campbell Island: The weather has been quite respectable today – the swell has abated just a little and with a following sea, we’re told that we’ll be arriving at Campbell Island early. I’ve been trying my best to attend the lectures that are run through the day. All are very interesting, but the Auditorium has some form of relaxant in it, and I’ve rarely lasted more than 30 mins without falling asleep. The only consolation is that I’m not alone.
At around 5pm, we’re told that we need to return to our cabins because we’re going to be receiving significant wind from the port side as we turn into Perseverance Harbour at Campbell Island. We lean about 30o as the wind pushes against the ship. However once in the Harbour, a volcanic caldera, the seas are flat and we are surrounded by green mountains, grasses growing down to the water line and albatross soaring around the ship.
It’s strange to smell the soil and vegetation, but tomorrow it will be good to climb the 3km boardwalk to the nesting Royal albatross.
Thursday, 31st December - Royal Albatross on New Year’s Eve: It’s a windy morning, but above freezing now, so I choose to hike with one layer less than I’ve been wearing for the last few weeks.
Most people pass me, but I’m now in the slow group, allowing me to stop and take in the glorious sights as we climb up to 300+meters above sea level. We pass ferns and sphagnum mosses, see seals lurking in the bushes, and small birds walking along the board walk.
Crossing a saddle, I see albatross soaring above high rocky outcrops, and as I climb higher, I also see nesting albatross! It’s permanently windy up here, so they simply put their wings out and push off – beautiful to see.
It stayed dry on the walk up, but as we descend, the clouds close in and the rain starts. We have a choice of going back to the ship or taking a Zodiac cruise – cruise it is for me! Soon we’re near a massive seal – the Beachmeister for this area. This is a haven for many birds, including the albatross and Giant Petrels. My camera is having trouble focusing in the rain, but it is a joy to be out here.
Back on the KK, we dry out and I’m on the bow as we head back out towards the Southern Ocean. We wave goodbye to one of the researchers living on the Island, leaving him to enjoy his summer.
It's New Year’s Eve and the ship provides a midnight buffet (dinner had been at 7pm) and champagne. I come to wish everyone Happy New Year, & it’s then not long before I’m tucked up in my bunk.
Friday, 1st January 2010 - it's raining at Enderby Island: Rain is falling very steadily when we arrive at Enderby Island, and the wind is quite strong. But before long we’re in the Zodiacs and landing on the Island. Our briefing includes being aware of the seals that have a habit of charging – if this happens, shout loudly, point your hiking stick at them, and stay in groups. Hmm!
Last night we were offered 2 hiking options – a short walk (1.6km out and 1.6km back mostly on a board walk), or a long walk that includes stopping for lunch (about 8 km round trip). I chose the short walk, very fortunately. With the steady rain, walking on the soil means walking in mud and those that took the long walk found that it was extremely hard work.
We see two Yellow-Eyed Penguins and a number of Royal Albatross on their nests, and witness one flying off – truly magnificent to see these large birds run and lift off into the wind. Crossing the island, we reach a cliff on the other side with a “reverse waterfall.” The wind is blowing so hard that the water flowing over the edge is blown back up.
Walking back to the beach, I think I hear a thunder clap. But this doesn’t seem to make sense in this area. Suddenly there's a flash of lightning and a clap of thunder fills the sky. Nearby seals look up, but don’t move. We’re startled. I’m very aware that I’m out in the open carrying my metal hiking stick. So I lower this, and myself, and walk quickly down to the beach.
Back in the Zodiac, we watch seals frolicking in the sea, and birds nesting on the cliffs.
Cruising among huge fields of kelp, we get so wet that my camera finally stops. By the time we get back to the ship the wind has strengthened significantly, and the transfer to the gangway is one of the more exciting ones I’ve experienced! Thank goodness for those strong Russian sailors who seem to have you on the foot of the gangway before you know it. Once we’re all safely aboard, we again turn north towards New Zealand.
The seas are very, very rough, and while we’re having dinner I see us moving towards a wave that has no back. Somehow the Captain manoeuvres the ship so that we avoid this – I would have definitely been wearing everyone’s plates had we dropped down that wave. A little scary.
Happy Feet is showing tonight – having been amongst the Emperor chicks, how can I not see this! They really have captured penguins wonderfully well.