Back on the Kapitan Khlebnikov – in Greenland!

It’s so good to be back on the Kapitan Khlebnikov (KK).  It’s been a very busy 2 days, meeting people (passengers and crew) from previous voyages, and of course new travellers, attending briefings & going up & down the many stairs on the KK.

But first, back to Ottawa – after all the concerns that everyone had about 20kg checked limit and 5kg carry-on, we found out on Monday evening that they had arranged a larger plane so that we could bring cargo (food & other supplies).

Early on Tuesday morning while we were waiting to board the busses to take us to the airport, I finally introduced myself to Col Hadfield. And once at the airport I fulfilled my first promise to have a selfie with him – he obliged willingly, and the photos were shared with one & all!

Soon we were boarding the 3.5 hour First Air charter flight from Ottawa – it was about 2/3 full and some of us, including me, had 3 seats to ourselves.

We were above clouds most of the way until we flew up the fjord that leads to Kangerlussuaq. As they broke up we could see blue glacial water coming into the fjord, and further upstream, beautiful patterns made by the silt-filled water coming from the icecap.

Then it was into the zodiacs and over to the KK where I met my new cabin mate, Laura, who was on my last Arctic, 3 Arctic Islands, trip in 2012 – so that’s fun!

This morning we pulled up alongside the pier in the small town of Sisimiut. Our guides were waiting for us and we soon walked into the fairly small but bustling town that is a busy fishing port. It also seems to have lots of cars & taxis, so many taxis! The boxy houses are everywhere, and tend to come in shades of red, or blue, or yellow, each trimmed with white & with fairly basic interior spaces and amenities. All the people we met were very friendly – I visited the small museum and its adjacent buildings, and after almost 2 hours, I made my way back to the ship, stopping at art & craft stores, the local supermarket, and a gorgeous little lagoon that we’d walked passed on our way into the town.

Our time yesterday & today has been interspersed with loads of briefings: fire drill, pick-up the yellow Quark jacket, find the-right-sizes-boots, overview of trip briefing, meet the Quark crew, mandatory zodiac briefing, mandatory helicopter briefing followed by a close-up view including getting in & out, and where to sit.

As Shane (one of our guides said this afternoon), the KK has a "the best tool box to play with" – and we look forward to playing!

We’re now on our way to Illulisat – home to a fjord filled with icebergs. It is a beautiful evening, with a reasonably clear sky and a gentle swell that is making us rock from side to side quite nicely. The sun has set, and it’s likely that this will be our last night with darkness.

More to follow from the land of icebergs, polar bears & the midnight sun!

Elane Zelcer