Tea, gin & zhug – a fabulous welcome to Edinburgh!

Wow, what a wonderful afternoon and evening of taste-bud tingling flavours that welcomed me to Edinburgh. 

It had been a long 40 hours of travel from leaving home yesterday & arriving at my home for two nights, the Principal Hotel, Charlotte Square, Edinburgh.  And it was a very friendly welcome to this beautifully restored building.

Having settled in to my very large room, I grabbed my camera and went out into the warm spring afternoon – the sun was shining, Charlotte Square looked bright and fresh with very green lush grass, and the Georgian buildings surrounding it, had chimney stacks that caught my eye.  Everywhere I look I see these rows of chimney pots high on the roofs – hence the photo.

Charlotte Square Edinburgh

The hotel has an internal conservatory that is glass covered and serves breakfast, snacks through the day and into the evening, and afternoon tea each day.  A cup of tea was definitely needed after my stroll around, and this was where the tastings began. 

The tea menu has many options described in quite a bit of detail – I chose “Dragon Well” which seemed fitting given that I’m in the land of knights slaying dragons, and Nessie perhaps not that far away.

It is described as “Painstakingly hand-crafted green tea pressed into the shape of a feather. Sourced direct from the famed terroir of Hangzhou, Zhejiang Province, China. A succulent and fragrant tea with fresh, green vegetal notes and sweet hazelnuts. From Hangzhou, Zhejiang Province, China.”  It was delicious, not unlike a sencha green tea, and went beautifully with a well-deserved chocolate brownie!

Then at 6pm, having had a short nap, I was back in the conservatory to meet with Tom, who had a table set up for me to taste and learn about gin! 

It was a fascinating 45 minutes of history and tasting – starting from the Egyptians, to the 17th to 19th centuries in Europe, and the 20th to 21st centuries in Europe and the US.  We started with Dutch Zeer Oude Genever, a very harsh gin that was all about the alcohol and led to the term “Dutch Courage.”  Next was a Jensen’s English style that changed dramatically with squeezed lemon zest & tonic water.  Following that was Navy Strength Cannonball Edinburgh Gin – squeezed orange zest & tonic water changed it from 57% alcohol to a drinkable form.  And finally the Mediterranean gin, Gin Mare, that had overtones of rosemary and basil – interesting, no sweetness at all but strong flavours. 

From there I went to Baba, the hotel’s middle Eastern restaurant, where I enjoyed a delicious dinner of four small plates of Middle Eastern food – hummus with pine-nuts & zhug, a superb beetroot marinated trout, monkfish with chickpeas, tomato & saffron, and a side of yummy sweet potato with zhug. 

And this was my first half day! 

Today is sunny and clear, and there seems to be a wedding happening a little further south.  More on that later.

Elane Zelcer