Shackleton's & Scott's Huts
Tuesday, 22nd December - the Explorers’ Huts at Cape Evans and Cape Royds, Ross Island: We crossed the dateline yesterday and have skipped Monday 21st December. The KK continues to work through patches of sea-ice interspersed with open water. We’ve left the Ross Ice Shelf and now have mountains on the port side. The sun is trying to break through – perhaps we’ll have a sunny day after all.
Passing Cape Royds we see Shackleton’s Hut and a colony of penguins around it. The Captain turns the ship towards the fast ice (sea-ice attached to the land), and we sail straight into it, leaving surprised penguins watching us from the shore. This “garage” is not particularly secure, so we reverse out and try again further up the coast. This time we’re securely garages below Mt Erebus, its smoking peak covered in cloud. The only sound on the bow is from the wind coming directly from the South Pole, about 780 n/miles (1,400 km) away.
Wait a few hours and everything changes. It’s a sunny afternoon, with the helicopters buzzing around the stern, taking us to and from Scott’s Terra Nova Hut. This was erected for Scott’s British Antarctic Expedition 1910-13. It was from here that the party led by Scott set out for the geographic South Pole, reaching it on 17 January 1912 only to find the small brown-grey tent left by Amundsen’s team some 35 days earlier; Scott, Evans, Oates, Wilson and Bowers died during their attempt to return to this Hut.
I’m in one of first groups, flying across the white-on-white landscape in the helicopter. We fly relatively low across the white sea-ice under a cloudy sky; the face of a glacier flowing from Mt Erebus is clearly visible. There are cracks in the ice with dark blobs dotted around the edges – seals hauled out on the ice.
We land at Cape Evans and walk a short distance to the hut where Bob greets us before inviting us inside – but not before Sarah (travelling with us from the NZ Antarctic Heritage Trust), helps us clean our boots before we enter. It’s warm and inviting out of the wind. Cans of food are on the shelves, Scott’s boots are lying under his bunk and it feels as if they could walk back in at any moment.
Back on the KK the light on the ice is wonderful this evening, and I’m soon on the outer decks, snapping away at the soft colours and patterns in the ice.
After dinner we’re back in the helicopters and flying to Cape Royds/Shackleton’s Hut. He built this looking north out over a small bay towards the sea. It’s also filled with relics, and it’s easy to imagine the explorers waking to penguins on their doorstep while they organized their provisions for their next exploration.
Wednesday, 23rd December - visiting McMurdo (US) and Scott (NZ) Bases: Shane has just returned from a recon trip to McMurdo and has confirmed that we’ll be able to visit both this & Scott Base today. We’re up bright and early – I’m really looking forward to seeing how people live here and manage to winter over.
Our 12 minute flight to McMurdo is leaves at around 10:30. I’m in the front left seat behind the pilot. This should allow me to see south down McMurdo Sound, if the weather is clear. Sadly it isn’t. But I do have a wonderful view of the sea-ice, and of McMurdo as we come closer.
McMurdo is essentially a small city with nearly 900 people stationed over summer, and about 200 wintering over. Many are scientists, with the remainder supporting them. Our group is taken first to the gymnasium that is actively used, and then to the Crary Science Building, where we’re met by one of the senior scientists. She explains some of the research in oceanography, volcanoes, land and sea creatures and atmospheric science. Then on to the National Science Foundation building with its spectacular views across the bay and to Mt Discovery. And of course we have the chance to visit the all important McMurdo Shop.
We’re asked to not buy any of the food or personal care items unless this is absolutely essential. Since all their supplies come in only once a year for 12 months, McMurdo wants to ensure that they have enough for their staff. We have fun with our retail fix!
After our BYO lunch in the McMurdo Coffee House, we visit Discovery Hut and see where Scott kept his supplies. It’s very interesting to see the whale blubber still dripping, and old supplies in rusting tins. And we also notice that the wind has increased significantly.
Getting into the 4-wheel drive to cross to Scott Base is a challenge. In fact there’s no way that I can do this when the first Landcruiser arrives. But the driver of the second is more adaptable, and backs up to a steep hill allowing me, and others with short legs, to clamber on. Then it’s a quick drive to Scott Base 3km away.
After our welcome to Scott Station, we walk to Sir Edmund Hillary’s Hut with its wonderful collection of artifacts, including the clothing worn by him and his team on their Trans-Antarctic expedition. We enjoy a little more retail therapy in their small shop, and with helicopter waiting, we’re back on board for the bumpy flight home. Over dinner we learn that the last helicopter only just made it out of Scott Station in a snow storm, and not long before the weather closed in there.
Before dinner, we see Orca patrolling the beach out at sea, and then all too soon, we’re reversing out of our “garage” and we’re on our way to Cape Washington and its Emperor penguin colony.
It’s a glorious evening out on the bow as we sail through ice and sea – virtually no wind and extraordinary light. I’m out there on my own, but not feeling alone at all. I don’t know how many photos I took, but there were many. They really show the beauty of this part of the Antarctic.