Leopards & Lions, Zambia — Destination: Global

13°22’57”S 31°31’34”E (MAP)

Altitude 520m (1706 feet)

17-20 JUNE 2024

It’s been great to be back in Zambia and out on game drives in the South Luangwa National Park.

On Monday and Tuesday last week, our base was the main lodge at Mfuwe, and we travelled with Sue, Cindy and Ian, as well as new friends, Patti, Edith & Mark, and our amazing guides, Malenga and Peter.

From our first afternoon game drive to today, it has been extraordinary with amazing sightings: on our first game drive in the afternoon, close to the Mfuwe Lodge we came across a beautiful leopard, nicknamed “Lucy”. What a stunning animal, striding next to the bush on the road, before going deep into it as the numbers of 4WDs started to increase dramatically.

Apparently, she is used to this (although we’re not), and we’ve seen her since. Malenga took us around a side road, and after waiting and watching, she came out and sat watching the gathering 4WDs, perhaps somewhat bemused by the attention she attracts.

She raced up a nearby tree, sat for several minutes then came down nearer the other side of the road, wended her way between cars in the traffic jam and disappeared back into the bush. Was she using the tree to find her way through the traffic maze? Apparently not – it’s more likely that she thought there could be something tasty up there.

Elephants are also smart and look after their young in family groups, although males go into a high testosterone state, musth, and want to charge anything in their way. We stay clear of these.

On day 1 we soon found a group of 8 elephants, including one quite young and one even younger. Once they were used to us, the two came towards us to drink at a waterhole not far from our 4WD. The younger one didn’t yet have the “trunk control” needed to drink, but clearly wanted to learn by copying from the slightly older one. So it tried – first putting its trunk in the water and blowing bubbles: bllbllbllbllb.

Then it put its trunk in the water and then in its mouth – not yet transferring water but starting to get the idea. Surrounded by patient teachers, it will soon learn.

Further along we saw just some of the enormous numbers of birds, and of course impala (with the “m” clearly visible just under their tail) as well as a few kudu with their distinctive broad white stripes over their backs and bellies.

The following day we set out to find lions with their zebra kill. On the way we came across the corpse of a giraffe on the grass beside the track – I’ve not seen one before. Very distinctive because of the remaining skin.

Not far from there, a “tower” of a giraffe stood out in a grassy area and watched us watching them. It was a beautiful spot to have sundowners – so peaceful, and a good time for us to start to get to know each other. As the sun started to set, it was time to move along.

Malenga soon found the lions, their muzzles well into what was left of the zebra. Large numbers of hyena were sitting close by waiting for their turn.

There would be little left the following day, but we came back to the general area to see what else we might find, and found the group of giraffe nibbling on leaves before collecting in a group on the other side of the track from the dead giraffe. Malenga explained that they mourn the loss of one of their group. We left them to do this without our 4WDs and cameras disturbing them.

The following morning, we left at 6:30am straight after breakfast, to drive to Kapamba Bush Camp, where we stayed for 2 nights to explore the area. Since this is also a game drive, we would stop to watch and photograph anything of interest and of course for morning tea as well, always in a beautiful location along the river or deep in the bush.

And wow, what a start to the day! As we left the Lodge, Malenga drove a little faster than usual on the main road, suggesting that he knew something might be visible, but he wasn’t telling us what it was.

We turned left onto the track and saw plains of yellowed grass ahead of us, with beautiful “sausage” trees – these are large trees that have strong branches nicely spaced out. The “sausages” are the huge seed pods that hang down vertically looking like sausages.

Cars were parked under the tree, and as we came closer he quietly said “leopard in a tree”. And sure enough as we pulled up underneath the canopy, there was a beautiful leopard lying fast asleep on a strong branch, the leg of an impala (its kill) poking out from between branches.

There were only a few 4WDs there, so we had a wonderful uninterrupted view as the leopard, “Ricky”, opened its eyes from time to time, looked around and then went back to sleep, no doubt dreaming with a very fully stomach!

A hyena came and stood below the branch, maybe willing a piece of the impala to drop to the ground. It stayed a while, then wandered off … hungry.

And I took photos, many photos. This photo was 2nd on my list of “want to photograph” and is now top of the list. First on the list has been a leopard dragging its kill up a tree. It’s now number 2!

Along the way to Kapamba Bushcamp, a giant kingfisher and fish eagles flew above us, giraffe, a lion that seemed to be on its own walked by, and along the Luangwa River, hippos climbed over each other.

Arriving at the Bushcamp, we were greeted by the staff with a beautiful song – it’s always so good to hear their voices. And then after wiping away the dust with cool damp towels, we were shown to our tents. Our “tent” looked over the Kapamba River, and it was great to have a semi-outside shower with a view of the elephants meandering by on the other side of the river.

As part of the evening game drive, drinks were in the Kapamba River, the chairs set up in the water, and drinks served as the sun set behind the distant mountains. We also enjoyed lunch in the river the following day – yummy salads with barbecued chicken and meat.

On our second day there, our guides learned that lions had killed a hippo 15kms or so away from us. Off we went, warned that the kill would be a very smelly one.

And smelly it was! We were able to get close up-wind, and watch multiple lions taking turns to nibble, while vultures stood close by on the ground and in a nearby tree. There were about 12 lions taking turns to eat and guard the kill, then moving away to sleep. One had 2 very small cubs that also wandered down to the carcass close to one of the adults.

Once we left the area, we drove to the nearby Luangwa River where we enjoyed sundowners high up on the top of the bank safe from hippos and crocs in the water. The sky took on the colours of the sun setting behind us, and the almost full moon rose behind the mountains ahead of us. It was a beautiful place; particularly given the brutal scene we’d left behind.

On our way back to the Bushcamp, with the sky now quite dark, Malenga and the spotter managed to see elephants in the distance – one seemed to be separated from the others, and Malenga took suitable precautions to keep distant with them well to our right. Then out of nowhere, an elephant trumpeted loudly on our left – I nearly hit the roof of the 4WD. The spotter swung the light briefly to the left, and there she was, a female elephant, trunk raised high telling us that we should keep away. Duly noted!!

The following day we went back to see the state of the situation: the bones of the carcass were still intact, masses of vultures were now on the ground, but still keeping their distance, and the lions were letting them know is no uncertain terms, when they were too close.

The two cubs were now close to mum and away from the carcass, thankfully. Between dozes they were up and climbing over their mother with some beautiful moments that I’m thrilled to have captured.