Snow, Snow, Snow – winter has arrived early

It was a very bumpy start to the day yesterday as we travelled south from Norwegian Bay (Phenergan to the rescue – a few hours of napping and I was fine!). Our aim was to get to Radstock Bay during the afternoon so that we could go ashore and see the Thule sites, and then go to Beechey Island after an early dinner. I woke at some point during the night to darkness outside – our first really dark night since we were in the High Arctic. Even over such a short time of 24 hour daylight, it was strange to not be able to see the sky.

At around 3:15pm we could see Caswell Tower, a very large prominent landmark that was above our landing site – it was “littered with snow” and the ground around it was totally white – 10-15cm of new fluffy powder, an absolute delight! When I had been there in August 2006, it was dry soil and rock – an amazing contrast.

But yesterday the dark grey clouds, and the sea picking up that same colour, provided a beautiful backdrop to the soft white ground. Once we were on the shore it was an easy walk towards the Thule site (easier to see without the snow all over it). After 30 minutes or so, the sun made an attempt to light some of the snow, creating a range of whites to capture with the camera – a challenge, but fun! I’m still reviewing these, so no promises as yet.

It was also “Polar Plunge” day – for those crazy enough to attempt this. Running into sea that’s at minus 0.5°C doesn’t seem fun at all. But many did! In fact one very sensible person, Chris Hadfield, was testing a dry-suit for a friend; he looked happy and warm floating on the water!

All too soon we were back on the ship and off to Beechey Island – since we’ll be going there again tomorrow, I’m waiting to visit during the day.

Today is somewhat strange – the Canadian High Arctic is behind us, and the rest of the Northwest Passage is ahead. About 60 passengers have left the ship – 30 are remaining, and later today we’ll meet our new fellow-travellers.

The weather has been far from perfect for the transfer off the ship – we are anchored quite a way out from Resolute, requiring transfer by zodiacs. While they were loading into zodiacs, there was a fairly major blizzard with quite strong winds and poor visibility. We’re told that the plane is on its way from Iqualuit, so hopefully it will be able to land in Resolute. The helicopters have been used to transfer luggage, and visibility has improved, at least for now.

We’ve just been told that the roads around Resolute are a mess – one of the buses used to transfer our “leaving” passengers to the airport slid off the road – everyone is fine, but now instead of transporting everyone in 3 buses, they’re using local 4-wheel drives. It sounds like it will be a long night for them, and for the arriving passengers as well.

Meanwhile the ship has had a major clean ahead of the new arrivals. It’s been a good day to take some pics around the ship and to enjoy the quietness. Ice is moving around us – very pretty. The word from locals in north Greenland and Eureka, and it seems Resolute as well, is that winter is arriving early!

Elane Zelcer